Guptkashi

The tamed hills stand out here. It looked as if the tiny people tamed the monstrous hills and all live-in peace. The hills look so groomed and accommodating for people to nourish and flourish. Again it is the big boss, it stays tamed and ensures you are tamed too. Probably people really need to be fit to be here walking and jumping those inclinations. Kedarnath trek is planned the next day and this day, we had for some local sightseeing. There is a temple with an interesting story where you get to marry again. The thought of getting married again without letting anyone know seemed a game. Triyuginarayan temple as narrated to us is a place where Parvathi married Lord Shiva and the scared flames where they took the wedding vows is believed to be ablaze since then. This is continuously fed by the offerings people make there. The serenity of the place cast a spell with fresh airs.

Auli

 Auli! We were in an awe at this location a candid place to unwind. A man-made picturesque pond in the shape of a drop. We took a cable car up and then relaxed there for a while. Got a little dreamy about how the location could look like when people come here for skiing. The mountains ensured to make an impression in the backdrop. Wild flowers here and there were impressive.

Badrinath

After a long long drive to marked with many waterfalls, and spotting Kasturi hiran, we reached Badrinath. It was connected by road so no trek. We could walk the last village on the Indian border with Tibet, “Mana” village. It’s a retro living with small houses and tourist spots about almost every corner correlating to the Mahabharat. It’s a super scenic place where you can see the play of celestials. Sunlight, moon, clouds, mountains dressed in snow drapes flowing and falling accessorized by the flora and funa, Rushing waters and the boulders … all seem to be in a ballet. Shifting eyes between them is a challenge as each has a captive charm.

As the sunlight melts away ….

The rushing waters change tints. The roars seem to be more dominating now over the shrouded shoulders of the boulders. The glitter on the boulders is fading away after a daylong like the makeup on an artist making them look a little gloomy, thick and dark. Now it is time for a different makeup! Coming soon …. The mighty mountains are not staging a subtle show. Accessories are camouflaged, their flowing white drapes now seem to be frozen skin hugs. The white beauty of the prime time is just getting brighter while the glitters are slowly coming up to the

stage. Soon the ball room seem to turn into a dreamy night with stars so bright. Now the mountains were dressed in blue nightwear. I see life curling up to jump up tomorrow…..

At Bhim pool, we see a boulder over Saraswathi river as it put in place to cross over. Vyas Gufa and Ganesh Gufa are simple peaceful places with a nice aura. As we walk through the Mana village, the boards calling out as the last Indian village and last tea stall of India bring in a giggle and a different sense. We had a few yummy pakodas as one of the stalls there. We knew there were some interesting treks there like the Vasudhara Trek but did not have the time to do it.

Early in the morning at around 03:00 AM, we ventured out to realize it being pitch dark. We just followed the instructions given with our mobile torch and were at the temple to get a glimpse of the preceding deity. There was a long queue by then that was only getting longer. Once the temple opened, we could complete our darshan by 07:00 AM and then went around the place to Visit Seshanetra a rock that looks as if a might serpant has just raised one side of its head revealing one eye. The eye is not round but is more like a human eye.

The extreme dark and then the sunlight charmed up the whole place for a bright day. A great way to mark the end of our char dham pilgrimage. But the fun is not yet over. We continued on our itinerary to Auli, Rishikesh and Haridwar.

Kedarnath

Yah! The longest trek of Chardham! All geared up we were caught in traffic miles away from the trek start point. We decided to walk on those hills and valleys and catch up with the cab incase it happens to get through. However, after walking 7 KM, we reached the trek check post beyond which only jeeps ply to get us to the trek start point. There was a long queue here and to our utter surprise, there would sometimes be one person standing in the queue but by the time his turn comes, there would be 40 or 50 people he has proxies for. After a long long no jumping (just that we were not breaking our ethics) the queue wait, we got a jeep that took us to the start point. The inclination of the trek was a killer on me. I was exhausted in the first phase but was somehow dragging my feet getting inspiration from the elderly trekking along in devotion. I had to give my bags to him so that I feel better hiking. To cut short on the inclined pathways we were climbing up the damp hills following others doing it. The cliffs were not less than scary but yes we did it. The Valleys and hills do not fail to impress your eyes but they did not tickle the feet though. Crossing the muddy icy paths managing not to slip was an experience worth it. As we got nearer by the evening I had some energy from nowhere but he was drained. Together we managed to get there to the warm lights that assured we get some rest and then there was the temple gleaming in the lights of devotion.

I paused several times as I write this post to relive the moments and also falling short of expression to pen down the experience. We being lazy, with no regular exercise are vulnerable to aches had a magic work on us. After the strenuous trek, we reached our hotel that was cold and got some hot food. I closed my eyes just not daring to dream ... the aches I would wake up to. 

Yet, in the morning we were all energized. Got up early and we were at the queue gazing at the mountains in the background that started to fade in. Yes! Fade! Soon we were lost to chirping of the living, got a glimpse of the presiding deity and some yummy food, and some souvenirs. 

I swear my soul how I am out of words to appreciate the hotel owners serving food there. It is the same trek that they take to get their inventories and yet charge very reasonable. I could whole heartedly pay them the price of a star hotel or more not be for the ambiance or the interior or the hygiene but knowing the efforts the put in to get the supplies. But cannot hurt their feeling by overpaying too much nor could I hog to increase the bill 😊 as I know I have to trek back.

Happy tummy, happy me with pollution miles away, breathing fresh, close to serenity now I focus back to the backdrop where nature stands super stunning. Sometimes, small things make a fab deal so was this puddle of water. Trekking back was relatively easier and faster though your toes are tested for their breaking system. Back to the hotel in a habitat with automobiles, I close my eyes in glee, a sense of completing one trek and looking forward to sight seeing the next day. The magic that happened uphill did not happen again ☹ we could feel our legs heavy in the morning. With a slight delay we managed to drag ourselves for the day’s itinerary. We had a good cabbie who took us to some sightseeing places like Devariya taal (one among the Indian hikes places. I have a different post about this http://elusiveoligotrophicexperience.blogspot.com/2017/07/a-serene-lake-uphill.html) and Chopta (http://elusiveoligotrophicexperience.blogspot.com/2019/02/chopta.html scenic place to revive yourself in the living). Something that I did not call out in those posts is the drag we did 😊 for both these places, we were literally dragging ourselves as our eyes were wanting to reach but legs were strained and drained counting on each move to be made. Yet the heart and brain yelled, “believe the eyes, go for it!” And we did. It was worth it all.

Chopta

A daisy dream living! That’s what I feel like calling this place. It has hills, cliffs, forests and mountains, a cheering plain where the living is. This was a short and sweet stop over. It is a space as if nature wanted a break and have us in there cheering and chirping (making noise) for a difference. It is a comfortable place giving us a eye candy to gaze. Here are some pictures.

Gangotri

There is no tedious walk here but a long long queue. It is supposed to be the originating place of the river Ganga. (Ganga actually Originates at a nearby glacier “Gomukh”) There was a hot spring (Khund) where we were allowed to take a dip. Again the Khunds are manmade pools where the glacier water is directed to. They are separate pools for men and women along with changing rooms. As we reached there at day break, we had a chance to get in there. The water was steaming hot. Though I am used to taking hot water showers everyday, the water here seemed really hot! At the first glance, I a was almost sure I would not be able to step into the steaming water but they were a few in there already. I decided to just dip my feet and relax but then managed to slowly slip into the pool. It was an awesome feeling and I felt spell bound there. I got a chance to go deeper into the pool as it was not crowded there and soaked in for a while. Though I wanted to hang in, I know he would be waiting for me and so had to get back soon.

After a rejuvenating soak at the pool, we headed for the temple. It is right by the bank of bursting Ganga. All the rocks around seemed to be bleached and polished.  It soon got sunny and we were basking to baking in the sun there. The mesmeric sounds of pure Ganga waters enthralled us all along. It was a state of trance. Every thought in the mind was soon interrupted by the roars of Ganga and ensured we very much lived in the moment. It gives me goosebumps each time I close my eyes and visualize that sight …. Tireless waters flowing, I am sure the rocks could run away but stand spell bound and are built though to withstand the force.

Yamunotri

The first trek of our char-dham yatra. Was not easy but not very challenging either. Probably we just knew this is a teaser for the bigger trek ahead. The path seemed decent wide and were lined with shops often. They were selling raincoats, sticks to aid walking, food (mostly aalu parata or Maggie), tea, coffee, lime juice, water and some refreshments. We also see a lot of benches for sitting along the way that would assure we could get some rest. Soon there was a rush of horses, pittus and Dolis that carry pilgrims to the destination making the path way crowded and difficult to dwell through. There is quite a good chance of getting pinched between 2 horses.

As we reached the temple, it was crowded with devotees taking dip in the hot springs and praying to the deity.  There are separate Khund’s (pools with the hot spring water) for ladies and gents along with changing rooms. But the time we visited was chaotic as some men and women were across the pools and changing rooms.

As we find the trek tiring, the shops with smiling people ready to serve stand as an assurance to provide refreshments and cheer your way. Elderly people taking the trek would inspire you. Nature fills you with zeal and zenith. It is not preaching but reaching you in its own way. It is an impression that lasts long. Every loaded tree greets in its own way. Bright flowers, gushing waters, might mountains, boulders – rocks - pebbles all preach in silence, a tale told by time that only an accepting soul can listen.

Char-Dham Nomenclature

Well the first thing people think when they hear “Char-Dham” (Yamunotri, Gongotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath) is “Religious, spiritual ….” But this is a trek that is very very picturesque and refreshing. I believe one must do it in young age to be able to really enjoy the treks and soak in the nature beauty.  Reaching these places is not easy wrt connectivity. Slow but extreme driving is common there. The paths are narrow and land slides often put boulders on the way. Personally, a drive with 3 or 4 turns would pounce my heart and I would close my eyes and better put myself to sleep with the hope of waking up only if all is good 😊. Sights of accidents where vehicles falls into deep valleys are also common. Unless there is a vehicle behind, an accident could remain unnoticed.

At each of the religious place there is a trek. There are aided horses, Pittus and Dolies to help pilgrims reach the destination. They earn as they assist each pilgrim. Horses might not be actual horses but mules. “Pittu” is a basket in which one would sit and the basket would be carried over shoulder of a person. One would get an endless view of the sky for hours making them feel sick and depressed sometimes. Doli or palki is nothing but a chair tied to sticks there would be 4 people to carry and one can comfortably sit in a chair.

The horses, Dolies and pittus rush and brush through the crowd and sometimes it gets annoying to the pilgrims on foot as the paths are narrow with deep valleys. The paths at some points are stinky with horse shit. Showers are expected often. One would feel hot due to exhaustive steep walks, drenching in rains and cool breezes at high altitudes would make you feel the chillness. This would be a very unique experience.

The hardwork of the Pittu and Doli folks to ferry pilgrims is truly touching. Lots and lots of efforts. Also the stall owners still serve something for few little bucks While they really put in a lot of efforts to get their stocks.

Devariya Taal

A serene Lake uphill. So quiet as the sunrays dance in peace over the lake and distant snow clad mountains. An extremely satisfying 2.3 km hike as we started early in the day. Hardly people around.  The morning freshness flowing and cleansing every inch. Chirping birds, cool breeze, buds and flowers blooming, rose trees loaded with flowers adding the to the grace with the steep hike.

Huge trees with thick shadows and very narrow stone laid path to walk! We crossed a few closed stalls and soon had a few people walking with loads to open their stall. All in peace as we stretch our muscles for the hike, we reached a point where we couldn’t see beyond due to the inclination. As we hiked further high to the point, it opened up to a slight slop leading to the picturesque Marvel of Nature. This treasure is worth the struggle to hike. The place seemed like a small master piece worked up by creative baby angles up in the corner hiding it away from mommy and daddy.

It is a great location to relax and soak yourself in this gem of Nature. Magical airs of nature took away the strain and gifted calmness. 

Mussoorie - Kempty Falls

In the morning as we set off from Haridwar for Barkot via Mussoorie. I happen to notice the hills and mountains that promise fear but at the same time are getting tamed with a step fashion cultivation. it is a visual retreat to see the the hills carved to steps and have rich crops of Apples, walnuts and highly energetic herbs apart from the regular crops. Thriving life in serene back drop. Life almost never stops but adapts. Innovative, creative, simple, humble and adaptive living there is so inspiring and fills you up with positive energy.

 We had a break at Kempty falls. We stopped on a small bee busy street and were shown a way down to the falls. It was crowded and lined up with shops and stalls. There was a ropeway to go down but we choose to take the stairs as it looked promising for shopping and we can get to taste the local culture. There were great articles of wood and other crafted stuff here and we decided to shop on the way back. We finally reached the falls. It was too crowded with people enjoying in the water. In a couple of clicks we decided to fall back on shopping as it is getting difficult to stand near the falls.

Seems like the beautiful falls lead to tourism and then a mushroom growth of market around it.

Shopping! if you live in a metropolitan, it is a hard pinch as you realize how much you shell out for the antique look corner piece on online portals/ malls as the price for the same here would be less than half. Sometime even one seventh the price you pay in a city. There were a lot of wood crafted stuff to buy but we din want to get overloaded. After decent shopping, we proceeded to Barkot.