Sikkim - Temi Team garden and Namchi

We got back to Gangtok very late from Lachung as there was a vehicle ahead of us which would break down every 10- 15 mins and our driver was trying to help the other vehicle start. We checked into the hotel at around 09:00 PM. checked into the hotel at Gangtok. Well the next day was time to take off Sikkim and we were really clueless on how to reach West Bengal as there was an ongoing strike, we did not have any cab to take us from Gangtok to New Jalpaiguri and may be, we had to rely on buses run by the state government. Hotel Tashi Tagey was a very charming space run with passion. The couple running this are really passionate and have good ambience set with simple and great artifacts. The view from the terrace is great and to add to the delight they have a beautiful terrace garden. Alas!! It was only the view in the dark but indeed seems promising for a pleasant stay though this is away from the main market.

The couple maintaining Tashi Tagey almost signed off for the day when we checked in but did their best to make us feel comfortable. We felt very homely as they asked us if we would to have dinner. The lady did not hesitate to get back to the kitchen and prepare something for us as it was already getting late as uncle helped us get comfortable with the space. We did discuss ask them how far the bus stand was and explained them the discomfort of not finding a cab to ferry us to West Bengal. Uncle soon extended to help us. Not just help but he gave us hope to squeeze in more and more of Sikkim into the day. We quickly made a plan to go to Namchi and then head to New Jalpaiguri. Silence followed with no confirmation. As it was too late we did not want to bother the elderly couple. Our time to start was 04:00 AM if the plan is on. We retired for the day with a plan to be ready by 04:00 AM and fall back on plan B of taking a Govt. bus if nothing works.

Knock! Knock! At before 04:00 AM, the cab is ready! Uncle could not reach to his driver the previous night and so had gone to his house early hours to check if he can make it by 04:00 AM. And yes it all worked out very well. 

We started off for Namchi enroute Temi Tea gardens.

We were not very keen on Temi tea gardens as we have seen enough of estates at Ooty and Coorg. We happen to be there as it is on the way and we had sometime. This turned out to be very worthy! We reached there early in the morning around 07:00 AM. The tea garden seemed to be a jewel of pride bestowed amidst the white capped mountains, the green hills and blue skies. The early morning sunrays seems to be polishing this jewel of pride as it wipes the sprayed dew. The tints of hue slowly changing to green as the light brightens up was indeed a refreshing sight. We walked along in the total calmness. I strongly vouch, you start your day early on your vacations. The fresh look and the no much crowd gifts you a great experience.

Namchi has a few attractions but with the time on hand we could just do the replica of char-dhar where all the major pilgrimage spots in India are replicated. It is a peaceful and nice place to visit. Just a co-incidence, my Sikkim trip ended with visiting char-dham at Namchi and my next trip after Sikkim happens to be Char-Dham (Haridwar- Mussoorie – Yamunotri – Gangotri – Kedarnath – Badrinath – Rishikesh).

Sikkim - Lachung - Yumthang Valley

The Yumthang Valley is a promise of surprise. The valley is covered with a bushy shrub “Rhododendrons”. This is considered to be “The valley of flowers” but not really as it is more appropriate to call it “The valley of Rhododendrons ”. It was not the flowering season that we visited in and hence all we could see is a rocky abode. All the way Teesta river was luring us to get closer to it but the killer chill hurled us back after short ventures.

We reached a cheerful street that serves breakfast (warm bread and molten butter) and sells colorful woolen stuff and some gift articles. Prices are very reasonable.

Zero point is interesting, picturesque place as we got to see different phases of freezing water. Completely frozen waterfalls, flowing river, fascinating patterns formed by the impacts of nature on the freezing and un freezing water were just amazing. A deep breath in the freshness is very very relaxing. The hush hush of the water was soothing. I shall let the pictures do the talking here.

There is an army maintained coffee shop here that actually serves coffee and biscuits to the tourists free of cost. They sell deep fried bondas. Best of all, they have a good fire place. All we could ask for at that point is warmth and yeah, it is a blessing there. Appreciate and respect the army service. Though we readily had the free stuff accepted, we also wanted to pay something and hence had the snacks they sold. We also bought a coffee mug. The money shall be for a good cause.

We proceeded to a glacier near by. This had a hanging bridge decorated with Buddhist flags. The glacier water is supposed to possess medicinal value and there are local ways of curing people here. The glacier is thin and domed by a small room not very well maintained. 

Sikkim - Gurudongmar Lake & Bheem Naara

A pious lake at 17000 ft in the Himalayas near to the borders is a picture perfect sight. Reaching here is not easy as the climate and terrain throw challenges. The terrain is just too rough and you get tossed in the slow moving vehicle. The day we headed there was relatively blessed as there were no major weather issues. Yes of course!! It is December and it is slicing chillness around. Cold burns are common. The worst is a problem with your nose nostrils. Breathing gives you a lot of pain due to the cold burnt nostrils but you know you need to. We started in the dark at 03:00 AM. Seeing the sunrise in the mountains is a very different experience. Frozen water on the path is a common sight all the thin waters are frozen there. You can witness the slightly glowing frozen blue stuff turn shiny white as the sun rises.

Tall mountains standing black and white block the views beyond. Sun was shining bright enough as we reached Gurudongmar lake. Oxygen level at these heights are not consistent and so there is an element of risk involved. With sufficient understanding and preparation, you should be fine. The driver also warns and dictates the time you could spend as spending more time could lead the driver to sickness. At the snap of the lake, all the pain the terrain gave us was paid. It is a beauty that the eyes take a while to soak in. Pristine Natural beauty!

There are around 50 rough steps that lead you from the view point to the lake. Reading too many articles about how people go down, effects of low oxygen kicking in and never been able to get back had a profound impact and hence we refrained from venturing there as it was pretty much the same view we could get. The lake is actually not carnivorous, all it needs is good acclimatization and definitely good judgement. Few locals and the army troops walk around the lake. Yet there are frequent incidents of people choking to death there.

The way back was equally tiring and we had stopped at a remote hut for breakfast. I was skeptic to enter the hotel for breakfast by the look and feel of it. But yes, it is a well-served cozy space with a fire place that was a blessing then. They serve the typical breakfast of warm bread and molten butter and hot coffee. Appreciate the service at that altitude in the border areas.

On the way back, we visited “Bheem Naara” Water falls. This is a thin shooting tall water fall. Recently probably a few fans have renamed the water falls to Amita Bachhan (famous tall Bollywood actor). They put up a few posters, and some music there. Post lunch we set off for Lachung.

Sikkim - Lachen

Heading to Lachen from Gangtok is a strenuous 7 hour drive. There are many small water falls on the way but not very impressive. You would get Views of Kanchanjunga! The third highest mountain in the world. What a sight! What a muse. To me it seemed like a grumpy tall old uncle with a pipe often messing up with something or the other. LoL!! Wondering what am I talking about?? Just because it stands so tall, as we know mountains stop the clouds ….. Kanchanjunga always had some cloud that it is stopping. This to me seemed as if the mountain is smoking a pipe. As this could get big, it is as if Kanchanjunga messed up with something. For me, it was rear to see Kanchanjunga alone (without the pipe or mess :P) Hope that defines “The tall Old Grumpy Uncle”.

While nearing Lachen, we see heavy smokes high up and higher in the air. There was a forest fire believed to be sparked by a short circuit. The tall trees have been fire monsters for days now. Combating it as this altitude is a challenge.

We reached Lachen, a dream town uphill at 2750 metres above the mean sea level (MSL). It makes me J. We reached late evening and hence could hardly see the room we live in as there was a no power due to forest fire. It was chill outside and the tap water was too too toooo cold. We went down the street to take a stroll of the town. Simple living in the pure atmosphere. It seemed so dark and blacked out due to the mountains and tall trees but the skies were clear and near. Living in a city, though we know by book knowledge about the numerous stars, it seemed as if the stars from far off also have gathered to make this sky so bright. We retired for the day with dinner served hot. Yes Yes! The no power living in that chillness was indeed an experience. 

wonder how the wonderers get here amidst the curls, curves and heights to establish the same living

Sikkim - Nathula Pass, Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir

Woke up early in the chill!! Believe me, if not a new place to explore, I should have given in to the lazy cloud that day. We were to reach the pickup point by 7:30 AM which is a steep walk of 10 mins from the hotel. Reaching the pickup point in advance, we got some time to leisurely feel the chill and watch the morning at Gangtok. We then were taken to an assembly point and had to wait for permits until 09:30 AM.

Nathula pass, baba mandir and Tsomgo Lake (Changu Lake as the locals call it) was the itinerary of the day.

The first halt was at Changu Lake, bounded by hills, it is believed to be sacred and hence no boating or fishing in the lake. It has a small temple and cheerfully decorated Yaks. 

Then we headed to Nathula Pass. This is open for business for few months a year when both the nations would open their gates to facilitate movement of vehicles by road. Being at a high altitude, people could experience some discomfort due to chillness and altitude change. Medical aid is available for assistance. Vehicles would stop in the parking area and then we need to walk and take few stairs to get the view.

Our heartbeats were jumping too. Not very sure it is the excitement or the altitude and climate taking a toll. With all the self-preparation we could relax and get to the top. LOC cautions us not to talk loud or shout out slogans. I totally understand why this is needed. Any difference in energy here could be interpreted as an alarm on the other side! We definitely do not want to alarm the armed men out there.  

Visiting Nathula pass is a moment of pride with high respect and dubious silence. Standing on the edge of India at a friendly border with China. With my feet in India I can raise my hand in China. I can see China standing right in India without a visa. I could see the tough Indian army guarding border in the crux of harsh scenic nature. Their hardship is for us to breathe free yet we overload ourselves with complexities at different levels. At a height of 14000 ft, standing tall we soaked ourselves in the AIRS GRACED BY NATURE BUT MARKED BY MANKIND.

Har Bhajan Baba Mandir is temple of a soldier. There are a few stories on this but as I cannot judge, I prefer not to pen down any. With all due respect to soldiers and no doubt on Indian army’s belief for such a place, I do bow to it. On entering the temple, you would see a worship place, an office room to the right and a water room to the left. Soldiers leave a bottle of drinking water in the water room when they reach Nathula and take it with them as sacred water when they return home. It is believed that the soldier “Har Bhajan” guards the borders and the soldiers in the harsh climates. They give sugar chips as Prasad, and have a certificate to declare your visit to that place at a nominal price. There is a small shop monitored by Army where they sell artifacts. Assuming the contribution would directly reach the army pockets for a good cause, we were determined to shop there. I wonder how they are selling at a low price in such remote places. Some of those artifacts like a metal bike model are priced higher in other places of India.   

Sikkim Tourism Nomenclature

The border area has a challenging terrain and climate. Army limits the number of vehicles that could ply to a certain place. Of course, there are restricted areas too. If you are lucky enough, your vehicle/ travel agent could get the permit to get to the places you intend to visit. Photography is also prohibited at few places that have army activity. Plan to include the expense\ time for getting the permits. The routes are often through forests with many many water streams and falls. Water falls never fail to fascinate me but yes had too much of it that I didn’t mind dozing off for a while. It is amazing to see pockets of lively communities at higher altitudes. They have small colorful shops that serve the tourists food and sell woolen caps, refreshments, toys …..

They have a simple lifestyle and limited good food (vegetarian)! Not something that would make you to crave for Sikkim but served hot and friendly. They have different languages with the influence of Tibet and Nepalese on Hindi and a tribal language too. However, they manage to speak a little Hindi and English to accommodate tourists. 

Warm up! Sikkim ahead

Early winter, touring Sikkim was on the cards with the adventure side shining. Sikkim as of now does not have an airport or a railway station. The only way to get there is by road or heli (this is just what I heard. Not sure on the helicopter services). We choose to reach by road from the near by railway station New Jalpaiguri. This is the place where the Himalayan railways run their narrow gauge too.   

A pleasant morning at New Jalpaiguri railway station, we were rushing with excitement to reach Gangtok. Lets go go go ….. was the motto when the friendly taxis at the station greeted us with a No .. No .. No J Well it was the start day of the friction between West Bengal and Sikkim for the vehicle permits. A little knowledge, West Bengal allows Sikkim taxis to run around but Sikkim does not allow the ply of West Bengal vehicles and hence West Bengal was on a strike for getting permits to Sikkim. With no clue on the friction as we arrived it was not pleasing to hear a "No way to go to Sikkim". Some of the tour operators suggested we alter our trip to visit Darjeling instead. We headed to Siliguri, a small place away from New Jalpaiguri to try our luck. Fainted luck with cab, we were in a snail paced long long queue at the at the bus station. Quite a few tourists like us were there who just wanted to get a way to go to Sikkim. The long wait paid off as we managed to get the tickets in the last row of the bus. The route was mostly uphill in the dense forests. Finally we reached Gangtok! A sense of achievement for the start of the trip. A warmup to make a good memory!

Gangtok to me seems to be thriving on a mountain. Roads with heavy inclinations and basic living is the Gangtok signature. There are several narrow, sometimes shabby public staircases between 2 roads at different altitudes. This is the pattern all over this place. There is a lot of exercise for people there. We were in a hotel close to the main market but at a different altitude. Not easy on the calf muscles. We went to MG Marg the reputed market place to be astonished at the organized world class look. A broad tiled road with plantation divider and seating benches. Shops lined up on both sides. It is a very cool hangout place as there are no vehicles here.  

 Sikkim is not low on charm. A state of art to line the sides of the roads with trees, trees from the below deco up the roads above. Kudos Sikkim!