Char-Dham Nomenclature

Well the first thing people think when they hear “Char-Dham” (Yamunotri, Gongotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath) is “Religious, spiritual ….” But this is a trek that is very very picturesque and refreshing. I believe one must do it in young age to be able to really enjoy the treks and soak in the nature beauty.  Reaching these places is not easy wrt connectivity. Slow but extreme driving is common there. The paths are narrow and land slides often put boulders on the way. Personally, a drive with 3 or 4 turns would pounce my heart and I would close my eyes and better put myself to sleep with the hope of waking up only if all is good 😊. Sights of accidents where vehicles falls into deep valleys are also common. Unless there is a vehicle behind, an accident could remain unnoticed.

At each of the religious place there is a trek. There are aided horses, Pittus and Dolies to help pilgrims reach the destination. They earn as they assist each pilgrim. Horses might not be actual horses but mules. “Pittu” is a basket in which one would sit and the basket would be carried over shoulder of a person. One would get an endless view of the sky for hours making them feel sick and depressed sometimes. Doli or palki is nothing but a chair tied to sticks there would be 4 people to carry and one can comfortably sit in a chair.

The horses, Dolies and pittus rush and brush through the crowd and sometimes it gets annoying to the pilgrims on foot as the paths are narrow with deep valleys. The paths at some points are stinky with horse shit. Showers are expected often. One would feel hot due to exhaustive steep walks, drenching in rains and cool breezes at high altitudes would make you feel the chillness. This would be a very unique experience.

The hardwork of the Pittu and Doli folks to ferry pilgrims is truly touching. Lots and lots of efforts. Also the stall owners still serve something for few little bucks While they really put in a lot of efforts to get their stocks.

Devariya Taal

A serene Lake uphill. So quiet as the sunrays dance in peace over the lake and distant snow clad mountains. An extremely satisfying 2.3 km hike as we started early in the day. Hardly people around.  The morning freshness flowing and cleansing every inch. Chirping birds, cool breeze, buds and flowers blooming, rose trees loaded with flowers adding the to the grace with the steep hike.

Huge trees with thick shadows and very narrow stone laid path to walk! We crossed a few closed stalls and soon had a few people walking with loads to open their stall. All in peace as we stretch our muscles for the hike, we reached a point where we couldn’t see beyond due to the inclination. As we hiked further high to the point, it opened up to a slight slop leading to the picturesque Marvel of Nature. This treasure is worth the struggle to hike. The place seemed like a small master piece worked up by creative baby angles up in the corner hiding it away from mommy and daddy.

It is a great location to relax and soak yourself in this gem of Nature. Magical airs of nature took away the strain and gifted calmness. 

Mussoorie - Kempty Falls

In the morning as we set off from Haridwar for Barkot via Mussoorie. I happen to notice the hills and mountains that promise fear but at the same time are getting tamed with a step fashion cultivation. it is a visual retreat to see the the hills carved to steps and have rich crops of Apples, walnuts and highly energetic herbs apart from the regular crops. Thriving life in serene back drop. Life almost never stops but adapts. Innovative, creative, simple, humble and adaptive living there is so inspiring and fills you up with positive energy.

 We had a break at Kempty falls. We stopped on a small bee busy street and were shown a way down to the falls. It was crowded and lined up with shops and stalls. There was a ropeway to go down but we choose to take the stairs as it looked promising for shopping and we can get to taste the local culture. There were great articles of wood and other crafted stuff here and we decided to shop on the way back. We finally reached the falls. It was too crowded with people enjoying in the water. In a couple of clicks we decided to fall back on shopping as it is getting difficult to stand near the falls.

Seems like the beautiful falls lead to tourism and then a mushroom growth of market around it.

Shopping! if you live in a metropolitan, it is a hard pinch as you realize how much you shell out for the antique look corner piece on online portals/ malls as the price for the same here would be less than half. Sometime even one seventh the price you pay in a city. There were a lot of wood crafted stuff to buy but we din want to get overloaded. After decent shopping, we proceeded to Barkot. 

Sikkim - Temi Team garden and Namchi

We got back to Gangtok very late from Lachung as there was a vehicle ahead of us which would break down every 10- 15 mins and our driver was trying to help the other vehicle start. We checked into the hotel at around 09:00 PM. checked into the hotel at Gangtok. Well the next day was time to take off Sikkim and we were really clueless on how to reach West Bengal as there was an ongoing strike, we did not have any cab to take us from Gangtok to New Jalpaiguri and may be, we had to rely on buses run by the state government. Hotel Tashi Tagey was a very charming space run with passion. The couple running this are really passionate and have good ambience set with simple and great artifacts. The view from the terrace is great and to add to the delight they have a beautiful terrace garden. Alas!! It was only the view in the dark but indeed seems promising for a pleasant stay though this is away from the main market.

The couple maintaining Tashi Tagey almost signed off for the day when we checked in but did their best to make us feel comfortable. We felt very homely as they asked us if we would to have dinner. The lady did not hesitate to get back to the kitchen and prepare something for us as it was already getting late as uncle helped us get comfortable with the space. We did discuss ask them how far the bus stand was and explained them the discomfort of not finding a cab to ferry us to West Bengal. Uncle soon extended to help us. Not just help but he gave us hope to squeeze in more and more of Sikkim into the day. We quickly made a plan to go to Namchi and then head to New Jalpaiguri. Silence followed with no confirmation. As it was too late we did not want to bother the elderly couple. Our time to start was 04:00 AM if the plan is on. We retired for the day with a plan to be ready by 04:00 AM and fall back on plan B of taking a Govt. bus if nothing works.

Knock! Knock! At before 04:00 AM, the cab is ready! Uncle could not reach to his driver the previous night and so had gone to his house early hours to check if he can make it by 04:00 AM. And yes it all worked out very well. 

We started off for Namchi enroute Temi Tea gardens.

We were not very keen on Temi tea gardens as we have seen enough of estates at Ooty and Coorg. We happen to be there as it is on the way and we had sometime. This turned out to be very worthy! We reached there early in the morning around 07:00 AM. The tea garden seemed to be a jewel of pride bestowed amidst the white capped mountains, the green hills and blue skies. The early morning sunrays seems to be polishing this jewel of pride as it wipes the sprayed dew. The tints of hue slowly changing to green as the light brightens up was indeed a refreshing sight. We walked along in the total calmness. I strongly vouch, you start your day early on your vacations. The fresh look and the no much crowd gifts you a great experience.

Namchi has a few attractions but with the time on hand we could just do the replica of char-dhar where all the major pilgrimage spots in India are replicated. It is a peaceful and nice place to visit. Just a co-incidence, my Sikkim trip ended with visiting char-dham at Namchi and my next trip after Sikkim happens to be Char-Dham (Haridwar- Mussoorie – Yamunotri – Gangotri – Kedarnath – Badrinath – Rishikesh).

Sikkim - Lachung - Yumthang Valley

The Yumthang Valley is a promise of surprise. The valley is covered with a bushy shrub “Rhododendrons”. This is considered to be “The valley of flowers” but not really as it is more appropriate to call it “The valley of Rhododendrons ”. It was not the flowering season that we visited in and hence all we could see is a rocky abode. All the way Teesta river was luring us to get closer to it but the killer chill hurled us back after short ventures.

We reached a cheerful street that serves breakfast (warm bread and molten butter) and sells colorful woolen stuff and some gift articles. Prices are very reasonable.

Zero point is interesting, picturesque place as we got to see different phases of freezing water. Completely frozen waterfalls, flowing river, fascinating patterns formed by the impacts of nature on the freezing and un freezing water were just amazing. A deep breath in the freshness is very very relaxing. The hush hush of the water was soothing. I shall let the pictures do the talking here.

There is an army maintained coffee shop here that actually serves coffee and biscuits to the tourists free of cost. They sell deep fried bondas. Best of all, they have a good fire place. All we could ask for at that point is warmth and yeah, it is a blessing there. Appreciate and respect the army service. Though we readily had the free stuff accepted, we also wanted to pay something and hence had the snacks they sold. We also bought a coffee mug. The money shall be for a good cause.

We proceeded to a glacier near by. This had a hanging bridge decorated with Buddhist flags. The glacier water is supposed to possess medicinal value and there are local ways of curing people here. The glacier is thin and domed by a small room not very well maintained. 

Sikkim - Gurudongmar Lake & Bheem Naara

A pious lake at 17000 ft in the Himalayas near to the borders is a picture perfect sight. Reaching here is not easy as the climate and terrain throw challenges. The terrain is just too rough and you get tossed in the slow moving vehicle. The day we headed there was relatively blessed as there were no major weather issues. Yes of course!! It is December and it is slicing chillness around. Cold burns are common. The worst is a problem with your nose nostrils. Breathing gives you a lot of pain due to the cold burnt nostrils but you know you need to. We started in the dark at 03:00 AM. Seeing the sunrise in the mountains is a very different experience. Frozen water on the path is a common sight all the thin waters are frozen there. You can witness the slightly glowing frozen blue stuff turn shiny white as the sun rises.

Tall mountains standing black and white block the views beyond. Sun was shining bright enough as we reached Gurudongmar lake. Oxygen level at these heights are not consistent and so there is an element of risk involved. With sufficient understanding and preparation, you should be fine. The driver also warns and dictates the time you could spend as spending more time could lead the driver to sickness. At the snap of the lake, all the pain the terrain gave us was paid. It is a beauty that the eyes take a while to soak in. Pristine Natural beauty!

There are around 50 rough steps that lead you from the view point to the lake. Reading too many articles about how people go down, effects of low oxygen kicking in and never been able to get back had a profound impact and hence we refrained from venturing there as it was pretty much the same view we could get. The lake is actually not carnivorous, all it needs is good acclimatization and definitely good judgement. Few locals and the army troops walk around the lake. Yet there are frequent incidents of people choking to death there.

The way back was equally tiring and we had stopped at a remote hut for breakfast. I was skeptic to enter the hotel for breakfast by the look and feel of it. But yes, it is a well-served cozy space with a fire place that was a blessing then. They serve the typical breakfast of warm bread and molten butter and hot coffee. Appreciate the service at that altitude in the border areas.

On the way back, we visited “Bheem Naara” Water falls. This is a thin shooting tall water fall. Recently probably a few fans have renamed the water falls to Amita Bachhan (famous tall Bollywood actor). They put up a few posters, and some music there. Post lunch we set off for Lachung.

Sikkim - Lachen

Heading to Lachen from Gangtok is a strenuous 7 hour drive. There are many small water falls on the way but not very impressive. You would get Views of Kanchanjunga! The third highest mountain in the world. What a sight! What a muse. To me it seemed like a grumpy tall old uncle with a pipe often messing up with something or the other. LoL!! Wondering what am I talking about?? Just because it stands so tall, as we know mountains stop the clouds ….. Kanchanjunga always had some cloud that it is stopping. This to me seemed as if the mountain is smoking a pipe. As this could get big, it is as if Kanchanjunga messed up with something. For me, it was rear to see Kanchanjunga alone (without the pipe or mess :P) Hope that defines “The tall Old Grumpy Uncle”.

While nearing Lachen, we see heavy smokes high up and higher in the air. There was a forest fire believed to be sparked by a short circuit. The tall trees have been fire monsters for days now. Combating it as this altitude is a challenge.

We reached Lachen, a dream town uphill at 2750 metres above the mean sea level (MSL). It makes me J. We reached late evening and hence could hardly see the room we live in as there was a no power due to forest fire. It was chill outside and the tap water was too too toooo cold. We went down the street to take a stroll of the town. Simple living in the pure atmosphere. It seemed so dark and blacked out due to the mountains and tall trees but the skies were clear and near. Living in a city, though we know by book knowledge about the numerous stars, it seemed as if the stars from far off also have gathered to make this sky so bright. We retired for the day with dinner served hot. Yes Yes! The no power living in that chillness was indeed an experience. 

wonder how the wonderers get here amidst the curls, curves and heights to establish the same living